T1 Max

The real obstacle for abrasives is the toolhead, not what the other people said. If you print pa6 cf with the current toolhead but replace just the nozzle to a hardened one, the filament detector is going to get destroyed first, then the 3 hole cht style heatbreak and lastly the non hardened extrude

Honestly it worked really well. Ive had a few people do this after I showed them and most people just do 1 bentobox and they've said that it worked just fine. I opted for 2 because the t1/t1 pro has a pretty large enclosure compared to a bambulab enclosure that the bento was originally designed for.

This is a pic of the mainboard on the FLSUN_T1. The mosfet is bottom right. Notice it has only two pins soldered because the middle was snipped and heatsink instead is used. It's was difficult to replace without damage to pads so be careful.

there are no mobos left. if you didn't get one of the revised ones late last year before FLsun went out of business you are out of luck. maybe someone has a working one from a salvage T1 but I doubt it. the solution is to solder your own driver onto it. sorry

V400 is an excellent machine, although with mine I’ve never quite gotten dimensional accuracy to where it needs to be. I agree that this is the best machine FLsun has made. After tearing into my less than a full day old T1 Pro and having done a lot of work to my V400, build quality between the two i

Selamlar. FLSUN T1 yazıcımın aynı şekilde kartı arızalandı inceledim sürücüler ısınmadan dolayı işlemciye yüksek voltaj kaçırıyor o sürücüyü enable pini ni kontrol eden işlemci pini yanıyor. İşlemcide boşta olan bir pin buldum yanan pini oraya taşıdım bir süre daha düzeldi çalıştı. birkaç hafta sonr

If youre having adhesion problems I can 100% guarantee you that if you get yourself a kdeavi plate you'll never have adhesion problems again. If you dont want to use flsun slicer then its at least a good to take a look at all the settings and transfer thwm over to your t1 orca profile. I prefer orca

First of all, check your motherboard in the top case, I don't know how you can tell what version it is but if it's not 2.4 version then the upgrades you want to do will be pointless because the motherboard will fail sooner or later. As for hotend recommendations: Peopoly lancer and Phaetus rapido UH

I have no clue, but this is Microsoft Copilot's response... Sounds mildly like good advice. That -18°C reading is a classic red flag—it usually means your printer’s firmware is failing to detect the thermistor properly, or the thermistor itself is disconnected, damaged, or shorted. Here's a breakdow

(Part 2) Yes Elgoo carbon "CAN" be loud -- in all fairness and rainbows (as reported when fans are MAXED 100%)... but for normal PLA operating the DBs sound is less then ~50dbs or LESS - likely less, 40's dbs to be fully fair, and no bias... but again, its NOT 65-70+dbs ALL THE TIME like the FLSun T