Pinch

I'm old school and have fully switched. I use the Edelrid Pinch and the Edelrid Giga Jul. Good form and diligence are hugely important, but predictably fallible.

just get a gri gri or edelrid pinch. They're both great. I like the GriGri a little better, but it's only a tiny %

Grigri is the standard, but I really prefer the edelrid pinch. No need for a carabiner, closer to harness and less flopping around.

not just you, unfortunately megawatt needs to be revised by edelrid (just like the pinch imo), because its famous for reaching its slippage age very very quickly

All of those that you mentioned do exactly the same things: belay with single or double ropes, rappel on single or double ropes, and "guide mode" belay from the top anchor. They're all great, so you could pick any of them and be fine. Alternatively you could look into getting an assisted belay devic

This question comes up twice a year, every year, probably based on course schedules. Climbing gear, especially belay devices, are pretty much optimized. Edelrid spent lots of time and money with people with decades of experience designing climbing gear and was able to make the pinch, which by popula

edelrid pinch is another option for assisted braking that’s slightly more similar to a tubular device in rope handling things like the mammut smart system do some braking but is geometry assisted not cam assisted (or passive vs mechanical?), probably very familiar to tube style but some more assista

Most versatile is definitely the edelrid giga jul. It's got assisted and standard modes, 2 rope slots for double ropes or rappelling, guide mode, and is pretty affordable. This is good if you want one device for literally everything. If you're only going to be doing single pitch sport, it's hard to

I was single pitch ice cragging the other day and switched from a Edelrid pinch (ABD) to my dmm pivot bc the ropes got icy and it was safer to use the pivot (ATC style). I usually bring my pivot with me when multi-pitching and leave the pinch in the car. TLDR: ATCs haven’t been replaced. Icy ropes a

My go-tos: Ocùn for harnesses (great value, awesome fit, surprisingly light) and a somewhat different shoe shape than the big brands. Fixe for ropes. I’m in love with the Siurana and Rodellar. Wonderful stretch and great handling. Boreal for shoes (because they’re the one brand that really fits my f