Pinch

Grigri is the standard, but I really prefer the edelrid pinch. No need for a carabiner, closer to harness and less flopping around.

You've got all the right ingredients, I'll say that right off the bat. There is always room for improvement. As you identified, technique is probably the biggest factor for you. What jumps out to me is that you're saying you are struggling to get your finger back onto the shelf. This is not a proble

1- use skinnier ropes, they will move through the grigri more easily (new ropes tend to be more slick and this helps too). 2- get to know your climber and anticipate the clip, start paying out a little before you really need to. 3- hold up the grigri to a comfortable position by constantly holding u

Dmm phantom or camp photon are small/light. Also petzl attache or whatever (Smd?). I have rope soloed with the pinch on my Cadillac with a 19g looped through there as a backup but yea, it’s wide and I wouldn’t recommend it. If I use my pinch (only for LRS/ascending) it is with the Edelrid Bruce stee

a lot of rope twisting can be avoid by keeping the rope path in one plane. all grigri style belay devices i know apply this improvement except for the grigri itself for unknown reasons. they are the edelrid pinch, the camp matik, the mad rock lifeguard, and the beal birdie.

HowNOT2 published a long, detailed, and entertaining discussion of the Edelrid Pinch with Tommy Caldwell 2 months ago. i have had the pinch for a while now and for me it is definitely the better device. everything about it seems to be just as good as the grigri and then there are some parts better t

Obviously atc’s are still useful. Especially for half rope fans like me. I’m surprised people haven’t mentioned the Edelrid pinch. I prefer it over the grigri because it clips directly to your belay loop, making it easier to feed slack to a leader. The neox is kinda pointless imo.

personally, i do not mind spending the money on thin ropes like the edelrid kinglet 9.2mm. under these circumstances and especially when you prefer belaying tube style, the combination of the edelrid pinch and a rope diameter below 9.5 mm is the best belaying experience i know. and i know many. even

In addition to what 0bsidian said, the vertical loop permits a bit more freedom of movement, as the leg loops and waist loop can float more independently of each other. In some ways, this harness design is a hold over from back in the day when leg loops were sold separately from waist loops (or supp

I'll refer you to two websites for curring and historic climbing devices. Probably not a exhaustive list, but: https://weighmyrack.com/belay-device http://www.verticalmuseum.com/VerticalDevicesPage/Belayers.php It would be nice to take a depth look into the history and current belay devices about th