Pinch

I'm old school and have fully switched. I use the Edelrid Pinch and the Edelrid Giga Jul. Good form and diligence are hugely important, but predictably fallible.

edelrid pinch is another option for assisted braking that’s slightly more similar to a tubular device in rope handling things like the mammut smart system do some braking but is geometry assisted not cam assisted (or passive vs mechanical?), probably very familiar to tube style but some more assista

I’m just wondering if there is an official or best way of disengaging the cam as a lefty. here is an illustration from page 2 of the user manual. it does not get any more official than that, does it? and it is the best way in my experience. and there is a demonstration at 3:41 of this video by edelr

A couple of questions really need to be answered to narrow down the options. Do you care about weight? Do you want an anti panic function? Do you want to be following manufacturers instructions? There are (to the best of my knowledge) no devices desgined to be used on a single rope abseil that when

Thank that's good advice! And it also goes for me because I am also a complete beginner and I guess learning on a regular grigri is safer than getting used to the anti-panic. After all, I guess it's better to find anti-panic when you don't expect it and get a bit annoyed than to expect it but not fi

Definitely wont have the pulley effect issue to the extent that the zaed has which is why I find it hard to recommend the Zaed. Nonetheless edelrid has been somewhat careful in their language to suggest it's not a successor to the ohm, but rather something a little different for what that's worth. B

Grigri is good and the standard everyone knows. Grigri+ is super annoying - pays out slack worse and that panic-lock when lowering is a total pita. For smoother tube-style slack feeding I’d recommend the Edelrid Pinch - love how it’s closer to the harness, and handles a little more ATC-y than a Grig

Most of the lead belayers at the last ropes comp I was at were using ATCs. It was surprising. They're pretty concerned with not short roping the competitors and giving a soft catch to prevent wall impact injuries. But also, I heard someone express surprise that they got through the whole comp withou

Finally a good question! Thanks. So you have a few options for these kinds of things. In our case we were swinging with an edelrid pinch (this new awesome device eliminates the chance of a carabiner crossload and works like a gri gri) attached to our rope from our harness with a backup knot directly

I prefer the edelrid pinch just cause it has more versatility in how you can attach it to your harness/anchor. It also has an anti-panic handle on it like the grigri+ that you can disable by removing a pin if you want.