Pinch

I'm old school and have fully switched. I use the Edelrid Pinch and the Edelrid Giga Jul. Good form and diligence are hugely important, but predictably fallible.

just get a gri gri or edelrid pinch. They're both great. I like the GriGri a little better, but it's only a tiny %

Grigri is the standard, but I really prefer the edelrid pinch. No need for a carabiner, closer to harness and less flopping around.

All of those that you mentioned do exactly the same things: belay with single or double ropes, rappel on single or double ropes, and "guide mode" belay from the top anchor. They're all great, so you could pick any of them and be fine. Alternatively you could look into getting an assisted belay devic

This question comes up twice a year, every year, probably based on course schedules. Climbing gear, especially belay devices, are pretty much optimized. Edelrid spent lots of time and money with people with decades of experience designing climbing gear and was able to make the pinch, which by popula

edelrid pinch is another option for assisted braking that’s slightly more similar to a tubular device in rope handling things like the mammut smart system do some braking but is geometry assisted not cam assisted (or passive vs mechanical?), probably very familiar to tube style but some more assista

Most versatile is definitely the edelrid giga jul. It's got assisted and standard modes, 2 rope slots for double ropes or rappelling, guide mode, and is pretty affordable. This is good if you want one device for literally everything. If you're only going to be doing single pitch sport, it's hard to

My go-tos: Ocùn for harnesses (great value, awesome fit, surprisingly light) and a somewhat different shoe shape than the big brands. Fixe for ropes. I’m in love with the Siurana and Rodellar. Wonderful stretch and great handling. Boreal for shoes (because they’re the one brand that really fits my f

I’m just wondering if there is an official or best way of disengaging the cam as a lefty. here is an illustration from page 2 of the user manual. it does not get any more official than that, does it? and it is the best way in my experience. and there is a demonstration at 3:41 of this video by edelr

The first question is, what don’t you like about the Jul2 that needs replacing (or is it borrowed)? Tommy Caldwell is right that the Edelrid Pinch is “maybe about 2% better” than the Grigri. In other words, both are perfectly fine devices and you will be hard pressed to find any real usage differenc