Smart

Most of the comments thus far aren’t aware of the differences between a standard ATC, and an ATC Pilot. You can’t go wrong with a grigri or Pilot but the Pilot is the better option for most first devices IMO. Unless you’re gifting it to someone. My recommendation is not as a former Black Diamond rep

I use a smart alpine, which is a twin-tube version of the Mammut Smart. There is an odd motion that you can do where the curve of the belay biner can bind in the device, locking it up and preventing rope from traveling in either direction in it. I think it is better to have the wider belly, as well

Mammut Smart 2.0 is really nice for single pitch sport, much easier to feed slack for lead belay compared to a grigri and the assisted breaking bites very hard like a grigri. I know people will say that it’s fine to lead belay with a grigri, but the safe way (without disengaging the cam) is very fin

I always sing the praises of my Mammut smart alpine. It's the twin tube version, and it's been with me on more pitches than anything else. It is pickier about rope sizes, but as a single device for everything, it can't be beat. It has the smoothest rappel action and the smoothest belay action. One t

I have one. That I don’t use. I don’t really even think it’s worth it. The guy that suggested the Revo is probably on the right direction, but I learned when I was 14 on an ATC and just had, “do not take your hand off the brake strand” drilled into me. So much so that after a 15 year break from clim

I mostly lead belay with the Neox, but have since noticed the same with the GriGri so maybe this will help: it’s less likely to lock up if you put some force behind that brake hand. So you’re pushing the rope through the device in addition to pulling with your other hand. If you mostly lead and want

I recommend a Grigri, but make sure you learn how to use it correctly for lead belaying. Don’t bother with the GriGri+. It’s really tricky to get the hang of lead belaying with and can be quite annoying. Working in gyms when it was released was an absolute nightmare. Most of my friends who guide hav

I started with a figure 8 backed up underneath with a schwabish hitch connected to my linesman loop (dominant side). Very easy to do. I'm now running a Mammut Smart 2.0 (same backup to linesman) and it's easier. It just requires a 9-11mm rope and an HMS carabiner. I don't want a mechanical device on

I love giving slack with my Neox.Have Mammut smart 2.0, Edelrid Pinch and Neox, and so far Neox is my go to.

The Neox will feed more like an ATC if you learn to use it perfectly. I’m not perfect. The noises annoy me and when it locks up it’s annoying to release. The price is a bit crazy too. Avoid the mega Jul. The giga-Jul will be easy for you to get accustomed to, but it has the least assist of all the d