Reflex RS

I've spent 3 years dialing in my resin printers... someday I might actually print something I want to keep. If you plan to do anything outside of the normal niche of miniatures and figures, the S4U is not the printer you want. Do to the force sensor dictating build plate position, and needing to be

There are maybe 4 or 5 good quality affordable options right now but each has a downside. These are the models I’d consider & why I’d be hesitant. Heygears Reflex RS Turbo - too locked down and upgrading for the heated vat is an extra expense. Messy flat build plate. Anycubic P1/P1 Max - I’m unsure

The closest thing to a Bambu in resin is Heygears. The M7s main problem stems from auto-leveling and not having the tools to deal with the downsides, namely per layer settings and any sort of Z adjustment. The M7s other main problem is just Anycubic's poor QC. All of the auto-leveling printers on th

There is no 3rd party resin integration on any Heygears. You pick one of their profiles and see if it works with your resin. The RS and RS Turbo differ in the LCDs. Both have 8K LCDs, but the Turbo has an amber polarizer, this allows the Turbo to render significantly more detail. Check out Dennys Wa

The Ultra has a different UV light source system (mirror in the path) which is the same as Phrozens. Both printers have severe drop off of UV uniformity outside the central 'square' of the LCD. I know someone who thoroughly tested theirs and had 32% UV uniformity. The S3 adopts the same design as th

Dimensional accuracy means different things depending on what you value. Reflex RS still has issues with Z axis compression for example, and you can't fix it. You also are locked into the settings they pick for their resins, which means some resins only have 50um layer height settings and some have

The reality is, the only maker that does actual auto leveling is Heygears, as they lock the floating LCD in place once it's leveled. Everyone else either floats the LCD on springs entirely (Anycubic, Phrozen) or floats the build plate on springs (Elegoo). They also all use force sensors to determine

Worse UV uniformity, has a completely different UV optical system. Similar to Phrozen, and Elegoo abandoned it. UV power drops off of a cliff outside the central area. I’ve heard one tech reviewer comment that it prints fine… as long as you only use the middle. The castings for the z arm and 4-point

Saturn 2 is better than many newer printers for what you are trying to do. How well tuned are you? Are you using UVTools to apply wait times so you can use lower burn in times? You should be able to get down in the sub 10s range, or much less. I regularly have gotten in the 5s range. Have you calibr

Watch this teardown of a Reflex RS Check out this video, "heygears reflex rs disassembly chinese" https://share.google/03TH684cdZATSK2Zl Maybe constrained is the wrong word, but like a CNC the ballscrew is supported radially by bearings, which limit XY movement. It should be supported axially as wel