Pinch

Grigri is the standard, but I really prefer the edelrid pinch. No need for a carabiner, closer to harness and less flopping around.

a lot of rope twisting can be avoid by keeping the rope path in one plane. all grigri style belay devices i know apply this improvement except for the grigri itself for unknown reasons. they are the edelrid pinch, the camp matik, the mad rock lifeguard, and the beal birdie.

personally, i do not mind spending the money on thin ropes like the edelrid kinglet 9.2mm. under these circumstances and especially when you prefer belaying tube style, the combination of the edelrid pinch and a rope diameter below 9.5 mm is the best belaying experience i know. and i know many. even

In addition to what 0bsidian said, the vertical loop permits a bit more freedom of movement, as the leg loops and waist loop can float more independently of each other. In some ways, this harness design is a hold over from back in the day when leg loops were sold separately from waist loops (or supp

HowNOT2 published a long, detailed, and entertaining discussion of the Edelrid Pinch with Tommy Caldwell 2 months ago. i have had the pinch for a while now and for me it is definitely the better device. everything about it seems to be just as good as the grigri and then there are some parts better t

Obviously atc’s are still useful. Especially for half rope fans like me. I’m surprised people haven’t mentioned the Edelrid pinch. I prefer it over the grigri because it clips directly to your belay loop, making it easier to feed slack to a leader. The neox is kinda pointless imo.

personally, i do not mind spending the money on thin ropes like the edelrid kinglet 9.2mm. under these circumstances and especially when you prefer belaying tube style, the combination of the edelrid pinch and a rope diameter below 9.5 mm is the best belaying experience i know. and i know many. even

Not sure what you mean by "up and back". But the Pinch feeds better - and recommended by Edelrid - from the front rather than from the side. The live rope would still get in the way of trying to work the lever with your right hand though.

I'll refer you to two websites for curring and historic climbing devices. Probably not a exhaustive list, but: https://weighmyrack.com/belay-device http://www.verticalmuseum.com/VerticalDevicesPage/Belayers.php It would be nice to take a depth look into the history and current belay devices about th

I haven't seen anyone really talk about it, but for me the perfect belay device that's on the market currently depends on the type of climbing you are doing. Sport: Edelrid Pinch the direct attachment to the harness is a game changer. I haven't used my GriGri in over a year unless I have to, and hat