V3

Yeah, I agree. I have a few Keychron boards, but came very close to just ignoring the brand completely due to the convoluted mess that is their different keyboard lines. I'll try to simplify a bit...Q is metal enthusiast boardsV is plastic enthusiast boardsK is a more all-around lineC is the cheapes

I second buying from Amazon. I initially went for the v3 ultra 8k myself, but was unhappy with the fit & finish and so went to the Q3 ultra 8k. The switches are all 'fine' but, for me I was planning to upgrade switches and keycaps anyway. I'm a fan of the ZMK firmware. You can actually check it out

The knob on my P1 Pro is just as solid as the knobs on my other Keychron boards. If anything, it's slightly more firm/stable than the knob on my V3, and feels about the same as the knob on my Q6 Ultra.

Womier WD75 because the wooden case is rigid as an AL case and light as a plastic one. Also, lush lush lush. And it's also a decent board otherwise, with QMK firmware. Glencreag WK84 is wired-only, with a similar wooden case, and the source code is already working online. I've done a VIAL port for i

Keychron v3 ultra folosesc eu de puțin timp, dar super calitativă, atât la jocuri cat și la munca. Am luat o la 400 ron, in banii ăștia nu iei altceva mai bun as spune.

At least for the keychron, could be faulty soldering (but could be for the steelseries too). This also happened to me on my Keychron V3 max. I posted on it recently. Resoldered the contact, and it went away. Then after the A key, the M key, then backspace. Keychrons are known to have this problem, s

Re "...dying after one [year]": Unless you actually spilled a significant amount of liquid onto the keyboard, it has nothing to do with the use of it (it may look disgusting beneath the keycaps, but it is unlikely to cause this problem) It is inherent, partly a Keychron design problem and partly a m