Saturn 4 Ultra

Generally speaking the Saturn 4 Ultra 16k is the best option for most people. I investigated and wrote the original post explaining the 3-bit grayscale deficiency and it is still present. I also bought a S4U 16k and subsequently worked out a dithering method with UVTools to restore a significant por

Thanks! I’m using a Elegoo Saturn 4 ultra. That model using a different type of FEP film that helps to blend out layer lines. I also set the layer height really low. My print times are outrageous for the size but I have two Saturns so that makes up for it. If you’re completely new to 3D printing, I

No build plate flatness issue with the Saturn 4 Ultra outside rare individual defects, but it will typically not achieve 100% perfect Z accuracy the first several layers. You will want to use a high amount of Rest After Retract (Chitubox) / Wait time before cure (UVTools) using UVTools for the first

Did it start to fail at the back and split moving forward like this? https://www.reddit.com/r/resinprinting/comments/1n8gh14/help_with_st_flex_black_70a_parts_of_print_stop/ If so it is partially because the resin stretches and the tilt stroke of the S4U is shorter at the back than the front. Fixes are roug

I was going to ask if it was a Saturn 4 Ultra with the crazy thick raft you've got going on in the first picture. When you let it print rafts that far over thickness (what is that 1.7-2.1mm for a 1mm raft?). Your LCD has pressure spot failures, and it is likely because the build plate and overly thi

Not sure why the thread is all bad advice, but the biggest fix for poor adhesion with the Saturn 4 Ultra 12k* is Rest After Retract (Chitubox) / Wait time before cure (UVTools) for the first 10-20 layers. This is because the automatic leveling and spring-loaded build plate fail to settle the build p

I got into resin printing with the Saturn 4 ultra 16k and im really happy with it. The heated vat is amazing as I print in my garage and it maintains resin temp. Also the tilting vat peels the model off of the fep instead of just yanking it off. This means that you dont need to fight suction forces

I second this. A resin printer would also be good to use to print your figure and cast it into a mold in order to produce more. Personally, I have 2 Elegoo Mars 4 Max printeds and an Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra, I love them both! One of my Max printers just had the screen die, but I had gotten a lot of us

Anycubics are a larger gamble in terms of QC than Elegoo. A lot of M7s come with concave plates. On top of that, Anycubics can't use per layer wait times, so they have even more trouble with adhesion than other auto-leveling printers, especially with low cure depth resins (light colored/high detail)

Oh nice! Right to the source of it all thank you. I actually use PFA instead of ACF, Elegoo tried acf with the Saturn 3 and then ditched it. Chitu ships PFA with this hoopat x4 for the Saturns as well so I just kept using it. So far it’s worked great on my Saturn 4 ultra 16k. Very few failures. I ac