belay kit

Left handed belay instructor here… Like it or not, the industry is moving towards assisted breaking devices, so don’t buy an ATC. On toprope, you can actually apply some pretty slick left handed technique with a GriGri, but not so much when lead belaying. Any of the geometry assisted devices (BD Pil

It’s sort of wild to me the variability in safety of belaying technique. I went on a group climbing trip on vacation yesterday. Most of the people were doing things that would be an automatic fail of a belay test at most gyms in the US. I get using hand over hand technique on the brake rope though y

i agree in principle but with a few caveats. in recent years the grigri has become sort of the defacto standard in a lot of places, and you may find that potential partners are more comfortable being belayed on grigri, especially by a newer belayer. many gyms require it. on a personal note i wouldnt

Non autoblocking I really like the Mammut norwand alpine belay. Rope bearing surfaces are steel so it's quite bomber. Autoblocking I like the edelrid megajul/Jul series.

The edelrid Jul's are far better choices for wet/snowy alpine climbing with doubles or half ropes. Having a passive locking device is additionally safer if say... ice or snow fall incapacitated the belayer.

As someone from Europe where GriGri is still very prevalent but not a total monopoly like in the US I beg you for the love of god and your own safety and peace of mind learn a normal device like Pilot or Edelrid Jul or Mammut Smart. I see so many people use the gri and completely disregard the safet

I generally carry two devices. I wish to carry one for those few trips where every gram counts. By the way, I was messing around with my Mega Jul today and found a different configuration for top belay. Edelrid does not approve...LOL! Bodyweight tests confirmed that it holds load even when the user

Skip Petzl’s products. Better camming products exist (Trango Vergo or Edelrid Pinch), so there’s no reason to consider a grigri family. Similarly, if the goal of the Neox is “tube style” simplicity, get a tube. Many brands offer semi auto locking (same class as Petzl’s products) without moving parts

I think a lot of dislike for the grigri from people who originally learned to lead belay on an ATC comes from just not having enough practice with it to belay smoothly. I was a grigri hater for years (used an edelrid jul 2 as my ABD for a long time) and have switched to the grigri as of a couple yea

well, what does she want from the new one? 😁 Any assisted breaking device would do, it's a matter of preference and knowing how to work with the device. The geometric assisted breaking devices (Wild country Movement, Edelrid Jul, Black Diamond Pilot, etc) are a more budget option and they could be e