K1C

I can't confirm whether or not this is the cause of the problem as I am not about to disassemble my K1C. From a printer-mechanic point of view, this does not make a whole lot of sense. A wobbly bushing on the second gantry rod should not cause dimensional inaccuracies. If it were a fault (and not de

My experience is the opposite, between a Creality K1, H2D, and Prusa XL, the Prusa is slow and still prints like dogshit next to the H2D and K1. The Prusa was also the most expensive and isnt even enclosed.

I can see why you have frustrations. Both my K1M’s had 2k+ print hours before I started modding them. Tuning took a while on them before modding, but once dialed in - print results were great. Modding is a black hole that I may never climb out of - I’ve tried 6-7 different hotends, BCJ linear rail s

My first printer was a creality k1 that in the entire time i owned it I had two issues that needed fixing. It's kind of worrying that people just accept this level of failures as normal after paying several hundred dollars for these. That goes for any brand. I can't even get responses to open ticket

I'll get to uploading it in some time, I'm lazy a bit, was thinking thingverse, is it any good? My printer is creality k1c, plastic is creality brand PLA, they call it "hyper PLA". This printer has its own slicing software so I generally use their preset and just tweak minor things. For this one I l

Additive manufacturing a.k.a 3D printing has expanded tremendously over the last decade and become much more commercially accessible. Just the categories of 3D printing (FDM, SLS, PBF, SLA, etc) can be overwhelming. It's your first I would stick to FDM. Since your use case is potentially replacing f

Bambu - high quality, replaceable parts, good wiki, but they kind of decide what you can and can't do in some ways (like in terms of accessories, 3rd party software, not as in 3D files). They have made using non-Bambu slicer a bit more of a PiTA, so you'll likely use their slicer. Overall, not a bad

A Creality K1 would also suffice as it has the same features and is pretty cheap. However, go with a Ender 3 if you like to mess around with stuff. However, you might end up putting in the same amount as you would for a better printer, so consider that. The only upgrade I did on my Ender was put in

Like most things on the internet, people defend their preferred brand. I recently got a 3D printer for my daughter’s robotics project. I got a Creality K1C and had zero failed prints. Many people will tell you that these will fail. But the printer had been out for awhile, so I trusted that a lot of

Both are the same Ender v3 SE. Its the same printer. Ender v3 SE can do pla, petg, and tpu fairly well. If you want to do abs, Asa, or PC, or other termal warping filiments. You should move more to an enclosed printer. Tbh, you can get a k1 for less than a hundred bucks more and then the world Is op