Pinch

I'm old school and have fully switched. I use the Edelrid Pinch and the Edelrid Giga Jul. Good form and diligence are hugely important, but predictably fallible.

just get a gri gri or edelrid pinch. They're both great. I like the GriGri a little better, but it's only a tiny %

Interesting, this flew totally under the radar. Seems like the Ohmega deals with the same problematic locking mechanism as the Pinch - Edelrid will release an updated version of the Pinch addressing this issue.

You've got all the right ingredients, I'll say that right off the bat. There is always room for improvement. As you identified, technique is probably the biggest factor for you. What jumps out to me is that you're saying you are struggling to get your finger back onto the shelf. This is not a proble

not just you, unfortunately megawatt needs to be revised by edelrid (just like the pinch imo), because its famous for reaching its slippage age very very quickly

Grigri is the standard, but I really prefer the edelrid pinch. No need for a carabiner, closer to harness and less flopping around.

edelrid pinch is another option for assisted braking that’s slightly more similar to a tubular device in rope handling things like the mammut smart system do some braking but is geometry assisted not cam assisted (or passive vs mechanical?), probably very familiar to tube style but some more assista

I’m just wondering if there is an official or best way of disengaging the cam as a lefty. here is an illustration from page 2 of the user manual. it does not get any more official than that, does it? and it is the best way in my experience. and there is a demonstration at 3:41 of this video by edelr

All of those that you mentioned do exactly the same things: belay with single or double ropes, rappel on single or double ropes, and "guide mode" belay from the top anchor. They're all great, so you could pick any of them and be fine. Alternatively you could look into getting an assisted belay devic

This question comes up twice a year, every year, probably based on course schedules. Climbing gear, especially belay devices, are pretty much optimized. Edelrid spent lots of time and money with people with decades of experience designing climbing gear and was able to make the pinch, which by popula