SV08

Yeah, it's time to replace them. But for real the time to replace them is the same moment you buy the SV08, because they install wrong idlers there. Just look at the comparison between my stock idlers and the correct 2GT profile ones that I installed.

Its perfect for me. Fast prototyping with breakaway supports and two materials, easy with Engineering Materials, Option to do a reasonable multicolorprint, decent size. If this thing works, I am maybe selling all of my printers to leave the emtional damage behind. Ender 3 v3 se. Money grave, only re

My toolhead went to shit (wobbly driveshaft), bought a replacement for $80, same issue from start. Printed a a4t tool head which has had its own issues due to print quality, had to replace the belts and still haven't tuned them up quite right. Currently the printer has been sitting idle for months b

The micro swiss hot end is a floating hot end, meaning on tap, it can move as much as one mm depending on how much tension is being put in. I never fully figured out how to get it working, but the community fix is basically to create a macro that pushes a bit of under-heated filament before the tap

If you can get the microswiss for $40 on the sv08 (like i did frpm amazon...), why is it $80 for the kobra s1 with no real difference?

I made the mistake of pledging the Kickstarter Sovol SV08 Max. Hotend parts break often, and are almost never in stock. Even if they are in stock it takes 6+ weeks to get to me from China. Print profiles from Sovol are terrible. Pretty much have to redo the whole thing to get half decent prints. Eve

So why not switch for a modern toolhead? Dragon Burner / Dragon Cutter A4T / Kutter Xol-metrix V5 They're all better, lighter, mmu capable. For example, the complete V5 toolhead (originally designed for the Sovol 2.4, the SV08) is only 350g.

My guess is you damaged the thermister slightly and putting the silicon sock on pushes on the thermister and it shorts. Did the same thing myself. The SV08 stock hotend is the worst one I've ever dealt with and was the first thing I replaced.

For calibrations I mean e steps, flow rate, temperature, retraction, and similar. For me, the best way to calibrate a 3d printer and filament profile is using Ellis tuning guide: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/ He uses some custom gcode or stl, but many test files can be replaced with the o

PLA and PETG will work. For ASA enclosure is must, but still complicated. Small pieces maybe, bigger parts with a blanket and very long heatsoak and glue maybe. But with big prints the taco bed will always be a bit of a problem. Even more because the oem sensor likes to heat-drift. They did a bit of