Q1 Pro

For "functional" parts you want an FDM (fused deposition modeling) printer. Resin prints are generally weaker and print volumes are usually much smaller. I'd suggest at least a 250x250x250mm build volume, but I suspect some parts will want something even larger. You'll need something that can handle

I haven’t tried anything myself personally aside from cc3d 72D TPU transparent, and I’d say the layer bonding isn’t quite what normal TPU can get you but it’s probably 75-80% of the way there, much better than PETG for sure. I’m actually going to be printing some random bits and bobs using nylon tri

I tried printing from a dry box (also my own design: https://www.printables.com/model/1380345-filament-box-with-dry-system-for-qidi-q1-pro) several times - the filament is fed through a small section of tube, which causes additional friction. But I still tend to think that retractions should have be

Really? That's your only advice to a specific question that OP asked? My A1 Combo is a great printer, but it has had its own headaches (I had to stop using it for a couple of weeks after first getting it due to a recall, and there is a new current/heat issue with the newer A1 printers). I have frien

Qidi q1 pro. Its on my opinion cheapest 3d printer for industrial grade materials. It got heated chamber and nozzle temperature up to 350

I cooked my QIDI Q1 pro running it at 85C (for POM and PVDF) instead of the default 70C. For Q2 I haven't gone above 79C (throws an error at 80C and I'm too lazy to patch it) and it works great for ~1k hours (although most of the time it's 70C for ASA)