MK4S

This just tells me you haven't used a Prusa with Prusaslicer. Here is an image of woodfill PLA printed on a fully calibrated Bambu X1E vs a Prusa XL with zero calibration aside from the original setup. Prusa on the right. Here is an X1C vs a Prusa MK4 using bambu woodfill PLA.. The Bambu on the left

I assembled my first MK3 following a YouTube guide instead of the prusa manual - and he recommended to soak all the linear bearings in IPA, wipe them out, and repack them with your own grease using a printed applicator. It is a practice I carried over when building the MK4S kit. I do wish that the b

I've been using it fine for some time using a profile I got from printables.com ages ago. I don't even remember which one. It broke today after I changed a load of stuff and I realised it's less common than I thought to have them working together. You might find it is worth experimenting with turnin

I have two satin plates and each one is different, one is more textured, I can feel the pattern of the plate when I run my fingers over it, the other is smoother, I can barely feel the pattern, even the printed ORIGINAL PRUSA marks do not stick to it. I solve it with 3D varnish. I had bigger problem

We have 3 MK4S, one MK3S+ and One XL. And one MK 2.5 in storage that we want to restore to it´s original MK1 form. One of the MK4S is a new kit bought two weeks ago, and two are upgraded MK3S+ that first became MK4 machines. The MK3S+ is the easiest to get good looking prints from (apart from overha

Wow, I have multiple MK4 and MK4s printers and find the loadcell system much nicer than the PINDA probe. Finally I can easily swap out multiple build sheets as needed for different texture bases without having to tinker with live-adjusting the Z-axis during first layer printing. I did originally hav