Ender 3 V3 SE

Well, Creality is partly to blame for that. Ender-3 V3 SE, is a name made in heck. Even worse, a later model is called Ender-3 V3. They took a completely but equally non future-proof route with Hi.

I have also about 400 hours, comming straight from ender 3 v3 se. My recomendation is If you dont do 100% build plate prints, grab cryo grip plate. I havent found 100 % compatible with CC, but generis ones are covering 99% of my bed. Prints are greatly sticking to it, never had to use any glue or ev

I just got rid of my Ender V3 SE. It was just too much manual work to get working :/ The 3 things to try to fix: Z-Offset Wet filament Dirty build plate. (Scrub with dish soap then isopropyl alcohol). Good luck with that thing. It’s very capable if you’re willing to put the work in.

Der Ender 3 V3 SE wird oft so dargestellt, als hätte er die gleichen Features wie der A1 Mini, aber das stimmt so nicht ganz. Auto-Leveling und Z-Offset kann er auch, ihm fehlt aber die Vibrationskompensation, und die Kette vom Slicer bis zum fertigen Druck läuft beim A1 Mini deutlich reibungsloser.

There is a fully printable gantry upgrade that will do you really good, the plastic gantry is one of the weakest things about the V3 SE's design. https://www.printables.com/model/1148133-ender-3-v3-se-ke-gantry-support Of course it's very chunky, but there are low profile versions that use only thre

Probably a used Ender 3 V3 SE. I'd really recommend you save a little more and get an A1 Mini.

Its perfect for me. Fast prototyping with breakaway supports and two materials, easy with Engineering Materials, Option to do a reasonable multicolorprint, decent size. If this thing works, I am maybe selling all of my printers to leave the emtional damage behind. Ender 3 v3 se. Money grave, only re

EDIT — SOLVED:I flashed my Ender 3 V3 SE back to the stock Creality firmware and the problem is gone. The same print that repeatedly stopped extruding at around the same point now prints normally. Looks like the issue was related to the Navaismo firmware, not the filament, nozzle, or G-code. Hopeful

There are two main types of 3D printers: Resin and FDM. Based on what you mentioned about him, an FDM printer would be the better choice. Before buying, you can casually ask him what kind of printer he prefers. For example, ask which printer he uses at his office or which one he likes working with.

Distancia entre a mesa e o bicoMesa 0:0:0:0 ( zere a mesa com screw_tilt_calibrate )Fluxo da qual não raspa a unha no filamento na calibração de fluxo do orcaDecida do bico até esmagar a primeira camada ( Não da para ver no olho, tem que calibrar a distancia do z e ir descendo de 0,01 até chegar o pon