Ender 3 V3 SE

Ah i see, so the bed by itself is not entirely flat, and each time you calibrate the z axis, the calibration decided to be high or low willy nilly making your print inconsistent not just from a surface stand point but after every post calibration. Try these: https://www.printables.com/model/733411-e

There are two main types of 3D printers: Resin and FDM. Based on what you mentioned about him, an FDM printer would be the better choice. Before buying, you can casually ask him what kind of printer he prefers. For example, ask which printer he uses at his office or which one he likes working with.

Distancia entre a mesa e o bicoMesa 0:0:0:0 ( zere a mesa com screw_tilt_calibrate )Fluxo da qual não raspa a unha no filamento na calibração de fluxo do orcaDecida do bico até esmagar a primeira camada ( Não da para ver no olho, tem que calibrar a distancia do z e ir descendo de 0,01 até chegar o pon

Well I don't speak German but I can give u the best advise. Autolevel is shit in ender 3 v3 se Run it, manually tune it and thats it

Ender 3 v3 se... do not trust the auto Z offset. Learn to set it manually with paper method to get close then dial in with first layer tests. As others have said it is way too high here.

creality ender 3 V3 SE, had a lot of issues with the silk PLA just not wanting to stick, but double sided tape finally did the trick (I now have proper bed glue for if that happens again)

Sure. https://makerworld.com/en/models/230438-ender-3-v3-se-4010-fan-shroud I'm still struggling with the z offset even after 2 weeks lol. One time it prints fine, next one is an absolute mess.

Printer is ender 3 v3 se with Cr touch.... Upgraded to silicone spacers... Before was almost the same...

So i don’t have to worry about watching it like food in a microwave to make sure it gets good bed adhesion. Thats what i had to do for my ender 3 v3 SE.